The secret to a great paint job is to invest time in getting the room prepped properly. That means scraping and sanding any loose paint, patching nail holes or cracks with compound, letting it dry and sanding smooth. If you’re painting over a very glossy existing paint, go over it lightly with sand paper. Once it’s all ready, wipe down the walls with a wet rag and you’re ready!
Put the furniture in the middle of the room.
Trust me, you don’t want to try all sorts of gymnastics to paint around furniture. So move everything to the center of the room and cover it with a tarp or an old blanket.
Taping.
Buy a roll or two of thick blue tape and mask off the edges you don’t want painted. It costs a lot more than normal masking tape, but that’s no good and will pull once you peel it off. I prefer the 3 or 3 ½” rolls. Run this carefully along the lip of baseboards. Put a baggie and rubber band around doorknobs and then tape around the outside. If you’re a beginner, you might want to tape the edge of window and door frames if you don’t plan on painting them – but keep in mind you’ll still probably have to touch them up because the tape isn’t perfect.
Buying paint.
I’ve used them all, and I recommend Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore paint. Ask if they have a contractor series, which is usually less expensive because they skip all the fancy advertising. If you have to use Home Depot paint, Behr is probably their best brand. Do not try to skimp a few bucks and buy cheap paint – the poor quality will show and it will be harder to work with. Stay away from Martha Stewart and Ralph Lauren paints and such – you’re just paying a premium for the name.
How much will you need?
It’s recommended you buy one gallon for every 400 square feet. Keep in mind that’s just for one coat, and it usually makes sense to put two coats on. It’s always better to have too much, not too little. Mark the lids with a sharpie so you can store it and use it later for touch ups or to match colors.
Standard ceiling paint and white trim paint is usually universal throughout the house, so always buy a gallon, not a quart.
Choosing colors.
The biggest mistake people make is rushing into a color choice. Remember that colors usually look much brighter and bolder when on a whole wall, as opposed to a small swatch in the store. So if you’re looking at any bold color, I recommend going two shades lighter or more neutral so it’s not shocking once you paint the whole room! Also, the store usually sells 1 quart sample sizes of colors, so take a few home and try them out first.
What kind of paint do you want?
You’ll look for an interior latex paint. Latex means it’s water-soluble so you can clean up with soap and water and it’s not toxic and doesn’t stink up the whole house like oil-based paints (which aren’t even available in a lot of states.) Rule of thumb – you can put latex paint over surfaces previously painted with oil or latex paints, but you can’t paint oil over latex.
Choosing between flat, eggshell, satin, semi gloss and gloss paints.
The sheen of the paint corresponds to how shiny it is. Gloss and semi-gloss paints have a nice shine to them and also are the most water-resistant. You usually want a semi-gloss paint (gloss probably isn’t recommended) in the kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms. Ceiling paint is standard flat, and believe it or not isn’t just plain white – ceiling pants usually have a tiny bit of blue tint in them. Baseboard and trim is commonly satin or semi-gloss for a little shine. Most living rooms, bedroom, hallways walls, etc. are flat or eggshell.
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